I’m not sure how this always seems to happen, but out of sheer coincidence, Artificial Flavor is once again on trend with the runways for SS09. Witness this white mesh cardigan (top photo) by Kris Van Assche which was just shown on the Paris runways for his eponymous collection (thanks to DNR for this photo, from the July 7, 2008 issue). For those who don’t already know, Van Assche is the current creative director for Dior Homme, having succeeded Hedi Slimane a few months back. For SS09, Artificial Flavor also has a mesh cardigan, available in black, light grey, and charcoal as you can see in the accompanying picture. Now, we don’t kid ourselves… we’re not even close to being in the same league as this Belgian who is quickly becoming known as the next Tom Ford, but we do have to flatter ourselves when a design we conceived was also simultaneously created by one of the world’s top designers! Our “Sport Cardigan” will debut at Project NY taking place on July 21-23rd, along with the rest of Artificial Flavor’s SS09 collection.

Q: Tell us a little about your business, the region you cover, brands you carry, etc.
A: MOM agency started three and a half years ago with a showroom in central London on Piccadilly and two collections, Oliver Spencer and an Eco inspired Jeans line called Howies. The following season we began working with Margaret Howell and then began collaboration with Sunspel, a classic English underwear company who produce some of the finest cotton on the market. Two seasons ago MOM began selling the American line Nice Collective in the UK and we began to look for a new showroom. Having just moved Location in London to a bigger showroom we began to look for more brands to work with and after meeting with John in London last May we start our first season with Artificial Flavor.

Q: How did you get into fashion sales?
A: Fashion sales was never part of the plan to be honest. I studied clothing manufacture and textile technology at university in Nottingham in the middle of England. Nottingham also is the home city of the designer Paul Smith and the location of Paul Smith’s head office where I began my career in the Production department. A chance conversation whilst working there led to a move into wholesale. Nearly eight years later I left Paul Smith Ltd as the international Jeans division sales manager. I had a fantastic time there and got to visit some of the world’s best stores in key markets.

Q: What are you most excited about with the upcoming SS09 season?
A: SS09 whilst a little daunting due to the prevailing market conditions is exciting as we have new product to work with and a new showroom space which is a step closer to the overall vision for the agency and its presentation of collections.

Q: What trend are you tired of seeing?
A: When you asked about what I’m tired of seeing trend-wise the fist thing that springs to mind is the tyranny of the skinny jean. To most men over the age of 21 I say don’t do it! Trend it may be, but it’s not a good look for your average Joe.

Q: What is your favorite trade show and why?
A: A favorite trade show has to be Pitti Uomo in Florence Italy. There are two main reasons one is it’s the first of the season so great for trend spotting and secondly working in Florence is great! Having said that I have just visited the shows in Paris and Tranoi had a real buzz about it and a new show to Paris, from New York called Capsule was really interesting and very cool.

Q: Aside from writing orders, how else does a brand benefit from having a salesperson like yourself?
A: The benefits of having a salesperson like me would be (or so I’d like to think) are having a vision of where you can take a great casual wear collection to, in the UK market. Paul Smith gave me an invaluable insight into how to manage a brand that has great penetration in a mature market whilst along side that I got a feel for pioneering brands as I took Paul Smith Jeans into some new places where the brand history didn’t apply. The pioneering thing certainly holds a bigger challenge for me and in my opinion tests your salesmanship skills to a greater degree. I love to be instrumental in the success of breaking a new brand.

Q: What city represents ground zero for men’s premium contemporary today?
A: If I understand you right I’m about to piss a lot of people off so lets pick on somewhere foreign where diplomatic relations are bad already and say Moscow. In my experience all that is tasteless excess seems to emanate from there. To be truthful I have never visited but half of London’s population seems to be Muscovites right now and their questionable attire is on display daily.

Q: When not on the road or in the showroom pushing thenew collection, what do you do with your free time?
A: Free time is taken up with family stuff. I used to have a life as an individual; you know cultural stuff movies or bars and restaurants; generally adult pursuits. I have two kids and they dominate. I think we should return to Victorian Britain and get them working as soon as they can walk, chimney sweeping or mining? You know something to bring an income!! Kids have it too easy these days don’t you think?

Q: What’s your favorite vacation spot?
A: Cornwall in the South West corner of the UK is always a great vacation spot and not too far to travel. But Paris makes a
great City break and Italy has everything from great weather and beaches to the best food in the world so I think Italy has to be the favourite.

Q: Describe what you are wearing right now.
A: what I am wearing right now is a true reflection of my trade in that it is largely made up of samples for which I paid nothing!! The only purchased items are my adidas trainers (sneakers to you) I’m a big Adidas fan just old skool styles nothing too techno. Everything else is effectively stolen! I have some Oliver Spencer slim trousers in navy cotton. A white low V cotton T-shirt from Sunspel and a black fine gauge knit cardigan from a factory I recently visited in Prato Italy, whose collection I may start representing in the UK. In fact I was tempted to say I was wearing a backless scarlet sequined ball gown by John Galliano but I was afraid the joke might backfire.

On July 4th, Tony tied the knot with Karen up in beautiful Calistoga, CA at the Hahn Fahden Vineyard. The weather was sunny and 82 degress, a perfect summer day. Family and friends came from all over to celebrate their union. After the outdoor ceremony in the garden, cocktail hour commenced and then dinner was served in a wine cellar carved into the
mountain side! It was a great celebration and we wish Tony and Karen the best as husband and wife. Here are some pics:

The arbor/garden view

Tony and John waiting for Karen

Tony and Karen making their way from the ceremony as husband and wife

John making his dinner speech in the wine cellar

Artificial Flavor’s John, Lawrence, Marcus, Tony right before we lit up Cuban cigars

Recently John took a trip around the world to visit various distributors and retailers that are interested in representing Artificial Flavor. Lucky for us he documented his vagabond-ish business travels across Asia, the Middle East, and Europe with some fun snapshots. Here they are, enjoy!

Tokyo - the smallest self contained bathroom I have ever seen in my hotel room. The sink swings over the toilet when showering and then out when you need to use it. Oh yeah, Tokyo is a leg show!

Dubai - a winter wonderland in 105 degree desert of Dubai?

Greece - just another gorgeous Greek Island with the best baklava ever.

Dusseldorf Germany - a lot of Germans and great beer.

Copenhagen Denmark - very international city that puts a ton of butter on their steak.

Oslo, Norway-the King is in! I was told that the King is in court when their flag is up. I wanted to say hello but they screwed up my appointment. Very nice people living in a gem of a city. I’m 6′2″ and I am the average height there for the women - there are some tall people up there.

Barcelona, Spain - PIG-La Boqueria has some of the best food around. All the fruit and veggies are so fresh and good. I don’t have any pics of the fruits and veggies because I like meat more.

UK - Guinness here is way better than Guinness in the USA-what’s up with that?!

UK - The worlds tallest and steepest escalator underground in the UK train station.

We recently decided to clean out our messy sample room because it had reached a point of no return: stacks of samples, boxes of last season’s stock, and loads of junk that just needed to be taken to the dump. But in the back, we noticed that we had tons of new fabric just collecting dust that we would never end up using, so we figured that someone else could make better use of the countless bolts of cotton jersey and french terry we were stockpiling.

We were lucky enough to meet up with Nazarena Sadati, who is spearheading her own effort in the quest to eradicate breast cancer. She is organizing her own fundraiser in partnership with the Avon Walk for Breast Cancer, with a goal of $5,000 that she is close to hitting. She is using our fabric to create scarves with inspirational quotes on them to promote the 39 mile walk, which is scheduled for July 12 and 13 here in San Francisco. She is also throwing a benefit party at Sugar Lounge Coffee Bar at 679 Sutter (between Mason and Taylor) on June 28th from 8PM-2AM… be sure to stop by for a good time while supporting a great cause.

In the meantime, please be sure to visit Nazarena’s site, and if you choose to make a small donation, even better!

http://info.avonfoundation.org/site/TR/Walk2008/SanFrancisco?px=3862290&pg=personal&fr_id=1480&s_tafId=271866

Antenna magazine has only been around for one year, but they have already made a huge impact in the men’s premium street/contemporary fashion magazine segment with their product-centric approach to photographing the latest must-have consumer goods on pure white backgrounds. They publish only 4 issues per year (one for each season) but that’s the only downside to this book. The sheer number of brands they feature is their strength, and the layout is logical: a dedicated page to denim, sweaters, sneakers and myriad other categories allow for the reader to hone in on their next purchase with the greatest of ease. They even started mixing in non-fashion items, such as power tools, rolling papers, and even golf putters! But the magazine isn’t just all about the merch, as there are always a few editorials featuring a new up and coming designer, brand, or artist who is creating something unique.

Artificial Flavor recently spoke with JenniLee, Antenna’s Fashion Editor who among other duties, is responsible for pulling together all of the clothing and accessories that end up on the matte white pages of Antenna’s latest issue.

Q: Antenna has always had interesting covers, always devoid of any models or celebrities. Who’s decision was it to slap a shiny green $12,000 John Deer X728 Ultimate Tractor on the cover of the Summer ‘08 issue?
A: We knew we were going to shoot the John Deer Ultimate Tractor for a page on the inside. Tony Gervino, the Editor had a few different ideas for the cover that really said “summer” to us. Then we saw how strong the image was and how completely ridiculous it was to feature a tractor on fashion & lifestyle magazine it made sense in our collective Antenna brain. Seeing the tractor makes me think of fields of grass and that makes me think of the smell of mowed lawns and to me that’s a smell of summer.

Q: Antenna’s product mix seems to straddle premium streetwear, premium contemporary, and even designer categories, so it appears that you are trying to reach a relatively broad audience. How would you describe the people who read Antenna?
A: I think the Antenna reader is a guy (and girls too) that appreciate products and fashion from all over the market place. I think half of our readers are the ones who love and can afford luxury designer items. Another half are a bit younger, edgier and street savvy who thrill at being the first to own something. And the 3rd half (yeah, I said 3rd half!) are the guys in the middle, the ones that can’t always afford the most expensive item but knows what he likes when he sees it and we include items in his price range as well. We just want to showcase what we believe are the best options out there for what ever that product may be.

Q: Do you think Antenna will ever switch to a bi-monthly or even monthly format?
A: No. We really like being a capsule of each season’s best of the best. We want to be a coffee table magazine. Something you save and go back to all season.

Q: Tell me little bit about your background and what a typical day is like at Antenna.
A: I have been working as a Fashion Stylist for the past 10 years in NYC & LA. I started out in film school in Miami and moved to NY in 96 to work in film. I ended up interning in the wardrobe department on an indie film and wardrobe just stuck. I exclusively worked on movies for a couple years then I started assisting a stylist in LA. She sent me on a world tour as a shopper and dresser for Lauryn Hill & her band in ‘99. When I came back to NYC I focussed on styling rock bands and doing fashion shoots. Last year I had the pleasure to get a call from Evan the creative director here at Antenna and met with him & Tony to see about doing a magazine that is a product and fashion guide for men. First of all, there are no typical days at Antenna. My day consists of doing email requests for product, sorting through the mountains of boxes that we receive and editing out what we will use, and delegating to my assistants what needs to get returned asap. Then we have shoot days where I am in the studio helping plan how the product will be shot.

Q: As a fashion editor and a human being, what inspires you?
A: I am inspired by the city, the kids on the subways, the music I listen to, the art I see, the books I read, overall, not to sound too hokey but life and love are really inspiring.

Q: How do you personally define fashion?
A: Fashion is how an individual decides to bring out his personality and sense of self in the very utilitarian act of wearing clothes for function and modesty.

Q: What are some of the key qualities you are looking for when brands submit their designs to you?
A: We do such a wide array of products that it really depends on the item. I am looking for different things when I am asking for a cashmere blazer compared to a graphic tee. I always appreciate fine craftsmanship, luxury textiles and clever & functional design elements.

Q: With the ongoing 80s and 90s aesthetic still apparent in sneaker culture and premium street fashion, where do you think these trends are headed? Are there any trends that have reached the end of their life cycle?
A: I think all over print hoodies may be on it’s last gasp. I just saw a guy wearing a tie dye T shirt un-ironically so I would have to say that most trends have never ending life cycles… they just hibernate for a while like a polar bear. No matter how great or awful a trend is it will come back. Overalls, check! Neon colors, check! Long maxi dresses, check! Platform shoes, check!

Q: Who do you see as the real trendsetters today? Are there any specific groups of people or countries that are at the forefront, and why?
A: All over the globe, the trendsetters are the kids. By kids, I mean teens & early 20’s. They are the ones who are discovering themselves and their tastes and are fearless at expressing themselves through fashion. By the time they hit early 20’s the most creative are usually putting a lot of thought into how they dress and the image they want to put forward.

Q: What are some undersaturated or under served areas in men’s premium street/contemporary that are that you would like to see brands focus more attention on?
A: Original ideas. I am getting tired of graphics that are just inspired by a logo, product, or film or artist from the past but appropriated with the brands’ identity.

Q: When you’re not rustling together next season’s shoot, what do you like to do with your free time?
A: I like to hang out with my friends and go see bands or hit a museum or gallery and the movies. Ride my bike to the park. Go to Coney Island. And watch a lot of TV. The usual.

Thanks JenniLee! You can pick up the latest Summer 08 issue of Antenna at your local newsstand, or you can subscribe by going to the “Subscribe” tab on the upper right corner of their website http://www.antennamag.com

Artificial Flavor will be one of the brands featured at the Fashionista fashion show being held at ROE in San Francisco, Saturday May 31. Roe is located at 651 Howard St. and if you RSVP you get in free before 11PM. The show is being put on by Atlas in Walnut Creek, one of our favorite men’s stores when you find yourself on the opposite side of the bay. I heard from the owner that the models will eventually disrobe and will be in nothing but their Artificial Flavor skivvies… check back for pics!

Our good friends and partners from Masterpiece Apparel in Thailand were here in SF today visiting their customers. We chatted about production for a bit but quickly the subject of food took over the conversation. Although we acknowledged that good Thai can be had here in SF, the consensus is that you can’t beat the real deal back in Bangkok. From left to right: Supeena, Sunee, Mahin, John, Mahin, Marcus, Kylie, Pete.

Anyone who hasn’t skimmed through Details magazine in awhile is denying themselves the pleasure and advice found within deputy editor Katherine Wheelock’s one page style column in the Dossier section. With titles such as “Enough with the Skinny Ties” and “Time to Lose the Dad Jeans”, it’s apparent that she knows when certain trends have overstayed their welcome in this fickle fashion universe or when average guys have just lost their way altogether when it comes to getting dressed in the morning. I’ve come to look forward to see which celebrity’s misguided fashion sense she has chosen to make a lesson out of with each new issue that arrives in my mailbox: Will it be Josh Hartnett? Maybe Justin Timberlake? Her poignant writing is sharp and is bound to make you laugh, but deep down she cares about her readers because she wants us to avoid the pitfalls that we sometimes don’t see ourselves falling into when we step into our latest duds. Artificial Flavor recently caught up with Katherine to get a personal perspective on how she goes about her trend-terminating business.

Q: Tell us a little bit about your background of how you came to become deputy editor of Details.
A: I was a Journalism and English major at Washington & Lee University. Working in magazines was something I’d always wanted to do. I moved to New York after graduation and worked briefly as a sales assistant at the New Yorker (it paid more than editorial assistant positions), and then went to a launch called One. It was a design magazine that was born during the shelter-book boom. It lived and died very quickly but it was a great experience. Pilar Guzman, now the editor in chief of the very successful launch Cookie, was a boss of mine there. As was Chris Mitchell, later the publisher of Details, currently the publisher of Wired. Both have been good friends of mine since. After One, I got a job at Time Out New York as the Check Out (style section) writer, and later became the editor of that section. After a few years, I moved to the Fairchild launch Vitals, as an associate editor. When that folded, in part a casualty of the merge between Fairchild Publications and Conde Nast, I was fortunate enough to fall into a spot at Details. I had long wanted to work at a men’s magazine.

Q: How long have you been writing for Details?
A: Two and a half years. My primary duties are as an editor. Writing the style column and the occasional cover stories is something I do when I can.

Q: In a time when magazines seem to come and go, what keeps people coming back to Details?
A: I think what keeps people coming back to Details is its most distinguishing characteristic—an irreverent tone and a willingness to take an unpopular position on an issue. It’s provocative, and writers are given great liberties in terms of expressing themselves, which means there’s always something interesting to read in Details. There are stories in every issue that get people talking. That, combined with really unique service that’s informative but doesn’t talk down to the reader, compelling design, and comprehensive fashion coverage make it a men’s magazine that stands out from the rest—and that appeals to a wide range of readers.

Q: How do you come up with the ideas for your column?
A: The ideas come from a lot of places. Sometimes they’re my own. Sometimes they come from the extremely observant and insightful fashion department. Sometimes they come from other editors at the magazine and even the art department. We’re open to ideas from anywhere, and we’re an opinionated staff. But often, they come from Dan, our editor in chief.

Q: You seem to quote some notable names in the fashion trade, such as Rogan Gregory. How do you get in touch with these guys?
A: Our fashion editors are very well-connected, and they’re usually the ones who put me in touch with the right designers and buyers and store owners for each piece. But after you’ve been writing about one subject for a while, you begin to make your own contacts and form your own relationships with sources as well. For example, I’ve talked to Tim Gunn so many times for some of these stories that I feel pretty much like I can call him up anytime and quickly get a quote or a comment from him.

Q: Have you ever met any celebrities after you’ve used them as an example of what not to emulate?
A: Ha. No, not yet. But it could very well happen.

Q: Who is someone that you think is never in need of style advice?
A: Oh, I guess the usual. George Clooney gets referenced a lot, and it’s true. But I think a lot of Hollywood guys dress pretty well these days. They know what they like.

Q: Are American men finally catching up to their European counterparts?
A: I always sort of thought that was a myth in the first place. I mean, certainly Europeans have always had an appreciation for tailoring, and American men are only now beginning to really get into custom suits and shirts, but I don’t think significantly more European men have always dressed better than American men. I think it’s pretty even. I’m sure people will argue with me about that.

Q: What are some current trends that desperately need to go the way of the dodo bird?
A: Skinny jeans, for men.

Q: What book is currently on your night stand?
A: Ooh. That’s hard. It’s usually a lot of started-and-unfinished books. Richard Russo’s Bridge of Sighs. An Anthony Bourdain book. I think the last thing I finished was The Brief and Wondrous Life or Oscar Wao, and that was an embarrassingly long time ago. And there are always lots of food magazines and men’s magazines.

You can find Details at your local newsstand or visit their website for additional content and subscription info: http://men.style.com/details/

It’s been over 10 years since The Verve have played a show together. Fortunately, their limited tour of the US had a stop at San Francisco’s classic Warfield Theater, which is located a stone’s throw from where we’ve done a lot of our manufacturing (6th St. corridor). They rocked it out… Richard Ashcroft still has that magical stage presence and charisma, even with short mod hair. If you missed them, you better make your way to Indio for Coachella this weekend!